tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28637707426028247382024-03-05T15:58:35.422+01:00Quaffit's Art of iPhoneographyGaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-49707760689176531792013-03-28T23:27:00.000+01:002013-03-28T23:28:28.941+01:00How to: Create Cool Looking Grunge Style Pics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Camera Apps:</b><br />
Hipstamatic with Helga Viking lens + C-Type Plate film<br />
PureShot<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>SnapSeed </b>- for most of the work<br />
<b>PhotoToaster </b>- for the vignetting of the PureShot pics<br />
<b>A+Signature </b>- for the copyright watermark. This great app has a really cool feature that helps you to adjust multiple items added to your picture. For instance, to add copyright watermarks to all of the photos included in the collage shown above, A+Signature provides lines to snap the next item to in case you're adding multiple copyright watermarks. The items don't only line up horizontally but there's also a vertical help line appearing when you're adding items. I thought about adding one bigger copyright watermark spanning over all of the six pictures but then I decided to add a watermark to each of the pics. The snap line feature helped me a lot to align my watermarks correctly.<br />
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Ok, so here's the trick to create cool looking grunge style pics quickly. What you need is a Hipstamatic grunge combo, like the Helga Viking lens + C-Type Plate film. Then load your Hipsta photo into SnapSeed and chose TUNE IMAGE, then AMBIANCE. Pull the scale 100% to the right, then tap APPLY. Now chose DETAILS and STRUCTURE. Again pull the scale 100% to the right. Do you see the picture details coming out nicely, including the grunge effects of the Hipstamatic combo? Tap APPLY again. Then chose GRUNGE! Maybe the first given result will satisfy you. If it doesn't you can tap the crossing arrows on the left of the scale until you find a result that you like. Alternatively you can move the scale by wiping with your finger across the screen horizontally. Also you can change the texture by tapping one of the four included textures again and again until you like the result. When you put your finger on the screen and move it vertically, you get access to STYLE, BRIGHTNESS, CONTRAST, TEXTURE STRENGTH and SATURATION. I used a setting of about 25 for most of the values in all of my pics. Don't forget to tap APPLY when you're done, then SAVE your work. Alternately you can add a FRAME. Unfortunately SnapSeed doesn't include a vignette filter so I use PhotoToaster for that. Oh and if you're not satisfied with the HDR effects after applying AMBIANCE nd STRUCTURE you may repeat this again and again if you like. To give you an example of the AMBIANCE + STRUCTURE + GRUNGE effects that SnapSeed proposed here's an sample image from SnapSeed:<br />
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I did nothing else but applying AMBIANCE and STRUCTURE 100%, then I was chosing GRUNGE and I saved the picture with the first proposed result. Nice, isn't it?<br />
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What comes now are the single pics that I did after the procedure explained above. It's very easy and it's quickly done. The result speaks for itself, doesn't it? I'm a professional locomotive engineer. Two days ago I was asked to transfer engine #2217 from the workshops back to the railroad yard, but works on the engines hadn't been finished as I arrived so I had to walk back to the railroad yard, hence I took that chance to shoot some pics.<br />
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Pictures based on Hipstamatic photos:</div>
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Pictures based on PureShot photos:</div>
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Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-88097309138099775442013-03-15T21:50:00.001+01:002013-03-15T22:19:16.662+01:00It's snowing again!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxBhxRM62DM/UUOCRTzyv2I/AAAAAAAAGKc/a7E9Z9vACVU/s1600/IMG_6244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Camera App:</b> PureShot</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Additional apps used for post processing:</b></span><br />
<span style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;">SnapSeed</span><br />
<span style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;">TouchRetouchHD</span><br />
<span style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;">SnowDazeHD </span><br />
<span style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;">Blender</span><br />
<span style="orphans: 2; widows: 2;">A+Signature</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">Four days ago it started snowing again as I went out for a walk with our dog. It was snowing for about 24 hours, causing chaos on the roads again. I believed Winter was finally fading away but I was wrong. Winter was striking back at it's worst. 3-8" of snow was enough to raise hell again in Europe. Especially in northern France and Germany many traffic accidents happened, people got injured, people died.... I took the photo for this picture as snow had just started to fall again. Buddy, our dog, loves snow! It's a nice region where we live. From our house it's only a 10min walk to get into the woods. After snowfall finally stopped, the temperatures dropped down to as cold as -17°C (1.4°F) at night. Now Buddy loves it to run around like mad in the meadows, snapping at the snow and rolling in it. So at least some dogs are happy about the snow. I'm not! I hate snow because it makes roads dangerous and prevents me from riding my bike...</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">I edited the original PureShot photo with SnapSeed, TouchRetouchHD, SnowDazeHD and Blender. The true snow flakes in the photo turned out black in the center of the picture so I removed them with Touch Retouch. Then I added artificial snow in SnowDazeHD. SnowDaze is one of the brilliant apps made by JixiPix. All of their art apps are highly recommended. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">This is the original PureShot photo, a little underexposed because I could only point and shoot as there was a crazy dog on the other end of the leach that I had to hold. I like the photo nevertheless because it shows the natural light of that moment quite well. </span></span><br />
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This was the stage saved in SnapSeed after applying "Ambience" and "Structure" filters. For "Ambience", tap on "Tune Image", touch the screen so the menu appears, and move your finger up to activate "Ambience". I applied the filter at 100%. For "Structure", go to "Details", and choose "Structure" from the menu. You must be careful with this because it will make a noisy picture even noisier but if there's no noise you can usually pull the slider to 100%. "Ambience" in combination with "Details" and/or "Drama" gives a better HDR effect than most HDR apps can do. Before I decided to use SnapSeed for it I also tried iCameraHDR, ProHDR and even Mobile HDR, but none of the results looked as good as the result from SnapSeed did. What is important in this picture are the dark snowflakes. Like an HDR effect enhances noise it also enhances small details but in this case the natural snowflakes didn't look good so I decided to load the picture in TouchRetouchHD to remove them from the center, where they were most visible.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9LFBEyhySo/UUOCBaC14eI/AAAAAAAAGKI/WOKVmdPVFpk/s1600/IMG_6253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9LFBEyhySo/UUOCBaC14eI/AAAAAAAAGKI/WOKVmdPVFpk/s320/IMG_6253.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">This is the result after removing the snowflakes in TouchRetouchHD. It as a simple task to mask them off with the brush tool.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlOsqLh4L_b56C_1X856bpwaBQx3XO_KPhR3LHmCVxdrOpMNtB_qTwRHy9cxm1bSsdl4suvbGbQJ5dmxXFWReqskHN4BBKVXFpMS66X7YaX26KRAicuKis8x2hoWwi9nkN64nBphyizTY/s1600/IMG_6249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlOsqLh4L_b56C_1X856bpwaBQx3XO_KPhR3LHmCVxdrOpMNtB_qTwRHy9cxm1bSsdl4suvbGbQJ5dmxXFWReqskHN4BBKVXFpMS66X7YaX26KRAicuKis8x2hoWwi9nkN64nBphyizTY/s320/IMG_6249.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">With the natural snowflakes now gone I was ready to add artificial snowflakes in SnowDazeHD. I created two versions with identical settings with the exception of the snow effect where I used two different settings. Then I was blending both versions in Blender to mix the snowflakes. Settings was Normal blending mode with slider to 65% to let some snowflakes appear a bit more faded than the other which gave the effect a more natural look.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xP94I7kGZCo/UUOB1NLJ4aI/AAAAAAAAGJ4/XJlyvUGbgJc/s1600/IMG_6250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xP94I7kGZCo/UUOB1NLJ4aI/AAAAAAAAGJ4/XJlyvUGbgJc/s320/IMG_6250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;"><br /></span><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">After the snow was added I re-opened the picture in SnapSeed to play around with it. This is a black and white version whee I applied a red filter. I tried other filters too indeed but the red filter looked best. In then I was most happy with vintage effect #9 plus frame #19. If you tap the crossed arrows on a chosen frame, the frame changes. That's a clever way to include more variations for a single frame design. The same applies to any effect where the crossed arrows appear. I did two versions with frame #19 to blend them in Blender because I wanted a more even frame. Blending settings was normal blending mode 50/50 = slider in the middle.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z8v8NuyK5ew/UUOMN3QXaNI/AAAAAAAAGKk/Hnx2v9l-mV0/s1600/IMG_6257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z8v8NuyK5ew/UUOMN3QXaNI/AAAAAAAAGKk/Hnx2v9l-mV0/s320/IMG_6257.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">This is the first result from Blender after blending both frame versions to obtain a more even frame.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">To create a very unique frame for my picture I flattened my layers by touching and holding my finger in the center of the screen in Blender until the menu appeared to chose the "flatten" option from. The flattened picture then appears down left in Blender. I opened the SnapSeed version with the retro effect but without frame on the right side. Now I painted the mask to let the outer part of the unframed picture shine through the black frame. After applying the mask I adjusted the level of transparency of the black frame by pulling the slider to 65%. Copyright watermark was added in A+Signature.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxBhxRM62DM/UUOCRTzyv2I/AAAAAAAAGKg/q865LDKflVQ/s1600/IMG_6244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BxBhxRM62DM/UUOCRTzyv2I/AAAAAAAAGKg/q865LDKflVQ/s320/IMG_6244.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The finished picture.</div>
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Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-16603855436164119922013-03-14T18:29:00.002+01:002013-03-14T18:29:19.250+01:00The Leaning Tower...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-WWYVTDKEI/UUIENAGZ4FI/AAAAAAAAGJM/Z2SamjPT1pg/s1600/IMG_6202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="342" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-WWYVTDKEI/UUIENAGZ4FI/AAAAAAAAGJM/Z2SamjPT1pg/s400/IMG_6202.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>:<br />
<b>6x7 </b>(for the main picture)<br />
<b>Hipstamatic </b>+ Jane lens + C-Type film (for the Hipstamatic print)<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
SnapSeed<br />
iCameraHDR<br />
Pixlr Express+<br />
Blender<br />
TitleFX<br />
A+Signature<br />
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This is the redneck edition of that famous Leaning Tower, but unlike it's famous brother from Pisa in Italy, this one is located in a tiny village in Luxembourg, where I live. It's a silo. I live in this place now since 19 years and I always wanted to photograph that leaning silo because I believed one day it will collapse, but still it's standing. However, I don't know since when it is standing that way and nobody can say if it will survive the next thunderstorm, or not.<br />
The original photo was made with jag.gr's brilliant app 6x7. I worked it into this b/w picture with SnapSeed, iCameraHDR and Blender. The frame was added in Pixlr Express+ and the copyright watermark was added in TitleFX, which is a new app made by the same team that made already PhotoToaster.<br />
TitleFX is a really cool app to add effects to your letters but it lacks a bit of the comfort A+Signature provides. For instance, in A+Signature you can save your own creations in a catalog but in TitleFX you can't so you'll have to type in your copyright info every time you load a photo. If you want to add the same text to multiple photos it's best to copy it after typing it in the first time and paste it into the other photos.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X0-Uhe5dTIs/UUIEQJg9NZI/AAAAAAAAGJU/ckGBPBvdyNA/s1600/IMG_6150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X0-Uhe5dTIs/UUIEQJg9NZI/AAAAAAAAGJU/ckGBPBvdyNA/s400/IMG_6150.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Hipstamatic edition was also pimped a bit in SnapSeed. SnapSeed is a must have app if you want to get more out of your photos.<br />
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-10879796081676226072013-03-10T23:43:00.000+01:002013-03-10T23:43:09.309+01:00On the road again!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LfIMfrxXrlk/UT0JGIrWcWI/AAAAAAAAGIs/cB69QmNJ_AM/s1600/IMG_5645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LfIMfrxXrlk/UT0JGIrWcWI/AAAAAAAAGIs/cB69QmNJ_AM/s320/IMG_5645.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: PureShot<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>FrontView</b>: to correct lens distortion.<br />
<b>SnapSeed</b>: to work my photo into a retro style picture.<br />
<b>Blender</b>:: to restore the original size of the picture. After correcting lens distortion I cropped the picture back to it's regular format in SnapSeed. After editing was done I loaded the original photo in Blender on the left side and the edited but cropped version on the right side. Then I pulled the slider to the full right in normal blend mode and I saved my picture. This is a great trick to restore the iPhone's native resolution even if an app doesn't save in maximal resolution or if you had to crop your picture, as in my case.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b>: for the copyright watermark.<br />
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Finally, on February the 17th the roads had been dry again and the snow was gone. I felt so happy to ride again! Winter is the hardest time for every biker. All you can do is caressing your bike, doing maintenance and cleaning work while listening to cool Heavy Metal music in your garage, waiting for the white shit called snow to melt away. I HATE snow! Snow belongs to the North and South poles, to Greenland and Alaska, or to the mountains, but it doesn't belong onto roads which it makes dangerous to everybody's life.<br />
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Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-65720913247201384332013-02-22T02:32:00.001+01:002013-02-22T02:32:20.200+01:00Hoka Hey! Airbrushing my Nolan N90 helmet...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Il5RKQGA34I/USbGxB9_KnI/AAAAAAAAGDA/WTrN7QhJXD0/s1600/IMG_5539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Il5RKQGA34I/USbGxB9_KnI/AAAAAAAAGDA/WTrN7QhJXD0/s320/IMG_5539.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: PureShot<br />
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<b>Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>Photo Toaster</b> - for the vignetting<br />
<b>Pilxr Express +</b> - for the film frame<br />
<b>MergeImagePro </b>- for the collage.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark<br />
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February the 10th I finally finished the paint job on my motorbike helmet, which I did with my new Badger Renegade Krome airbrush, and my self-build airbrush compressor. You can see a video of it on my YouTube channel: http://youtu.be/CbidkEsd1Co<br />
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I painted my helmet silver Aluminium first. Then I applied a liquid mask on several places on edges and everywhere else where I wanted to have paint realistically chipped off. The liquid mask that I used is called "Maskol". It's from Humbrol, a brand famous among modelers for it's great enamel paints. Maskol rubberizes in contact with air and after the paint job is done you can either rub or pull it off. That's what I did.<br />
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The red hand painted "A" stands for Anarchy. Now, before you judge me wrong, please read this first: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anarchy<br />
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"Hoky Hey" is the battle cry of the Sioux Indians and nowadays the name of a Harley race in the USA. It translates as "today is a good day to die".<br />
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Number 27... because my beloved wife Fanny was born on a 27th.<br />
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Two stars the left side of my chin part for our two daughters.<br />
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"Fanny" on the left side, because it's my wife's name, signed by herself.<br />
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"FXDF" because it's the tech code of my Harley Davidson Fat Bob.<br />
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Nolan is great! The helmet was easily disassembled and re-assembled. And working with the Badger Renegade Krome airbrush is big fun!<br />
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Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-48368335979472619762012-10-21T22:45:00.000+02:002012-10-21T22:47:34.054+02:00Vintage Toy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3mCX1Z5J4et6RlQ0Kb5Ja4DrBIWSYvVn3tbX30uZ1ZNWjmHehDtL52BwiqukuROr0mGlNvbhBTNL2roZTiWvlPR3mvDN6EwUFQRDjp5wExQ3EexRRBolIEfKJ5gNZ50004je3LchHYTU/s1600/IMG_4753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3mCX1Z5J4et6RlQ0Kb5Ja4DrBIWSYvVn3tbX30uZ1ZNWjmHehDtL52BwiqukuROr0mGlNvbhBTNL2roZTiWvlPR3mvDN6EwUFQRDjp5wExQ3EexRRBolIEfKJ5gNZ50004je3LchHYTU/s400/IMG_4753.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App used</b>: 645pro</div>
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<b>Additional apps used for post processing:</b></div>
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<b>Snapseed </b>- for a little drama effect with de-saturation.</div>
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<b>Portrait HD</b> - JixiPix new app is meant to create beautifully painted portraits, but it's also well suited for any other kind of picture. I had no portrait picture at hand so I tested it on this one.</div>
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<b>Blender </b>- to blend the Snapseed version with the Portrait version. Reason was, I wanted to restore some detail on the camera lens which had been lost due to the painting effect. So I erased that part from the Portrait layer and lend it with the Snapseed layer at 88% in normal blending mode. I chose 88% because I wanted to keep part of the canvas texture still shining through on the lens.</div>
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<b>Snapseed </b>again - to add a little bit of drama again as well as some fine tuning of light and colors.</div>
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<b>PhotoToaster</b> - for the frame</div>
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<b>A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark.</div>
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A few days ago I was finally holding my latest toy in my hands, a genuine Kodak Retina IIIc vintage rage finder camera from the early 1950s that I auctioned on eBay. It came with its original manual as well as with its Certificate of Import and Ownership. Doing a little research I found out it must be a pre-1956 build after it's serial number. The camera is is great condition. The body shows only little traces of wear, all mechanical parts work smoothly and the selenium light meter reacts vividly to light changes. Today I rode out on my bike to do some first shots with the camera. Now I'm curious to bring the film to the photo store for development.</div>
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The camera is all mechanical and that's great! It's massive metal body feels great in my hands.</div>
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Below is another photo that I took with the 645pro. It's unedited. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjENpjqQpPbTjBMTYr6-NYniCapxdRBkw1HNvb-QUZ8XRiyxzRh8wYkiS6PnQEuhvPo8VO2bAFXM4AuE6vWRzGVxX1UD8M9tR6Xl72IuaSd4SsgBsS6y3d5864fqxSoTZzfBOSmsC-bEpw/s1600/IMG_4668.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjENpjqQpPbTjBMTYr6-NYniCapxdRBkw1HNvb-QUZ8XRiyxzRh8wYkiS6PnQEuhvPo8VO2bAFXM4AuE6vWRzGVxX1UD8M9tR6Xl72IuaSd4SsgBsS6y3d5864fqxSoTZzfBOSmsC-bEpw/s320/IMG_4668.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Looks like I'm on my best way to become an addicted vintage camera collector....</div>
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-18356538777138980092012-10-06T00:38:00.000+02:002012-10-06T00:41:19.426+02:00How to: correct the iPhone lens distortion...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAgEkyFs5NMzE-ldlxCOApGKQPhKJy9NSHF4gH_2q90XCVEqX9LluFDzuV6Jsv59e9MUYyp8gtrnfQ8PVnA593TgSoB_qSTq4b_aS3T4Wa_9PCOOrdjojNU95Yc9T4XWyUSeneGRqcPw/s1600/IMG_4348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAgEkyFs5NMzE-ldlxCOApGKQPhKJy9NSHF4gH_2q90XCVEqX9LluFDzuV6Jsv59e9MUYyp8gtrnfQ8PVnA593TgSoB_qSTq4b_aS3T4Wa_9PCOOrdjojNU95Yc9T4XWyUSeneGRqcPw/s320/IMG_4348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: 645pro with F4 b/w film and 645 format.</div>
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Location: Luxembourg Main Station, the new sidearm with the modern glass roof in front of the old station building. I took this photo late in the evening, as the station was deserted.</div>
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<b>Additional apps used for post processing:</b></div>
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<b>Frontview</b>: to correct the lens distortion. The photos below show you how I did it.</div>
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<b>Photo fx Ultra</b>: for cropping and contrast.</div>
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<b>PhotoForge2</b>: for a slight re-sharpening.</div>
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<b>Pixlromatic</b>: for the frame.</div>
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<b>A+Signature:</b> for the copytight watermarks.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd5h8tZ02zDqT7NthHwjSnADTnrP-Tdlma4LFGn5VgztHcFuzZ6jXeTuXDGNNLE7mNztRNAdhmv1J4tdnMM7k6HbP-d6To2hlz5iFjqw691j_oXCpEwrlQ1Z8n5IZZ_XDzbyFH7A3mRzQ/s1600/IMG_4349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd5h8tZ02zDqT7NthHwjSnADTnrP-Tdlma4LFGn5VgztHcFuzZ6jXeTuXDGNNLE7mNztRNAdhmv1J4tdnMM7k6HbP-d6To2hlz5iFjqw691j_oXCpEwrlQ1Z8n5IZZ_XDzbyFH7A3mRzQ/s320/IMG_4349.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the original photo as taken with the 645pro. You can see clearly that even if you align one side to the camera grid (left) the lines on the other side are oblique. To correct this I used a neat little app called "Frontview".</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7IyZEqH7oB4/UG9bz_-bbyI/AAAAAAAAF_o/0NxjWmrOG9Y/s1600/IMG_4351.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7IyZEqH7oB4/UG9bz_-bbyI/AAAAAAAAF_o/0NxjWmrOG9Y/s320/IMG_4351.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is the Frontview screen after loading my picture....</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VSlYlfNbt84/UG9b2RYVF9I/AAAAAAAAF_w/tHcvhzGBQNM/s1600/IMG_4352.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VSlYlfNbt84/UG9b2RYVF9I/AAAAAAAAF_w/tHcvhzGBQNM/s320/IMG_4352.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The first reference point is set....</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eVAHcRfzaw4/UG9b4mmi3hI/AAAAAAAAF_4/HYYCaYzRJws/s1600/IMG_4353.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eVAHcRfzaw4/UG9b4mmi3hI/AAAAAAAAF_4/HYYCaYzRJws/s320/IMG_4353.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Second reference point top left...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9M-qrrCr4slamRxp2u5SAZj65Bx74gT0HjaTQIMnMo6TzqhmAEQh6g-v9aitUxno6Suzy30G8l48N-wrWEQ062YJnDajmKg2iFygWcHIZIuRi-IwsWNbT1-PPxya0lb76xf-0vs9K7nI/s1600/IMG_4354.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9M-qrrCr4slamRxp2u5SAZj65Bx74gT0HjaTQIMnMo6TzqhmAEQh6g-v9aitUxno6Suzy30G8l48N-wrWEQ062YJnDajmKg2iFygWcHIZIuRi-IwsWNbT1-PPxya0lb76xf-0vs9K7nI/s320/IMG_4354.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Third reference point down right....</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QBivVWZeJy8/UG9b9jgHjdI/AAAAAAAAGAM/lJVBMnT2PBU/s1600/IMG_4355.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QBivVWZeJy8/UG9b9jgHjdI/AAAAAAAAGAM/lJVBMnT2PBU/s320/IMG_4355.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Fourth reference point set top right. Note that the points follow the lines that shall be straight after processing.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6u9M6eJ8U2A/UG9cDlOOaWI/AAAAAAAAGAc/A3TOnAy-zko/s1600/IMG_4360.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6u9M6eJ8U2A/UG9cDlOOaWI/AAAAAAAAGAc/A3TOnAy-zko/s320/IMG_4360.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now tap the arrow to process the picture...</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UPA34Nt2m1c/UG9cAIxW6yI/AAAAAAAAGAU/Zy0gGUhfK4s/s1600/IMG_4356.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UPA34Nt2m1c/UG9cAIxW6yI/AAAAAAAAGAU/Zy0gGUhfK4s/s320/IMG_4356.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Done!</div>
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After this operation completed, I saved my picture and I opened it in Photo fx Ultra for cropping and enhancing. Then I opened the newly saved version in PhotoForge2 for a slight re-sharpening, added the frame in Pixlromatic and the copyright watermark in A+Signature.</div>
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I hate it when I photograph a building and some lines appear oblique, no matter what I do. The happier I was as I discovered "Frontview". You cannot only take photos with it and correct them, you can also load photos made with other apps to be corrected.</div>
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-53925764074720722642012-08-29T21:45:00.001+02:002012-08-29T21:51:25.625+02:00Doing HDRs with the 645pro (beta)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2VAsCzbVnWs/UD5iGLoF5rI/AAAAAAAAF9g/nx0EHa-ktJA/s1600/IMG_3015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2VAsCzbVnWs/UD5iGLoF5rI/AAAAAAAAF9g/nx0EHa-ktJA/s320/IMG_3015.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: 645pro beta</div>
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<b>Other Apps used for post processing:</b></div>
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<b>Mobile HDR</b> - to create a HDR picture from 3 files. Most iOS HDR apps use only 2 files, one overexposed and one underexposed. <b>Mobile HDR </b>aims at creating HDR pictures from your bracket shots made with a DSLR. Because the <b>645pro </b>currently offers the best picture quality available on the iPhone I wanted to see if <b>Mobile HDR</b> can be useful for photos made with the iPhone too. The answer is YES it can! But to create the files necessary for the HDR picture one must use some tricks because the <b>645pro </b>offers no bracket mode shooting. So I did the following:</div>
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1) I used the <b>645pro </b>film with the richest colors, which is the <i>FC5 </i>film.</div>
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2) I used the <i>Neutral Density #1 </i>filter with 100% efficiency. Currently that filter is only available in the actual beta version of the <b>645pro </b>but that version is to be released soon. It runs rock stable and comes with a lot of improvements. So if you don't already have the 645pro on your iPhone I recommend you buying it. It's definitely the best camera app available, and it's a pleasure to work with it. </div>
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The <b>645pro </b>saves your photos in TIFF format as well as in JPG formt. The TIFFs are the RAW files, unprocessed, no film effects, no filters. Development of RAW photos shot with a DSLR is usually done in a so called "RAW converter" but no such app exists for the iOS devices so development is done in the <b>645pro </b>itself, that's why it's called a dRAW file - a developed RAW file. The JPG file (of the same photo) is the photo with the configured effects applied, such as films and filters used.</div>
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3) In case of the old Diesel engine (above) I also created a black and white version in <b>MonoPhix HD</b> as well as an overexposed version in <b>Laminar</b>.</div>
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4) To create the HDR picture in <b>Mobile HDR</b> I used the black and white version created in <b>MonoPhix HD</b>, the JPG version from <b>645pro </b>and the overexposed version made in <b>Laminar</b>. To create the overexposed picture I simply adjusted its curve by pulling it a bit outwards on a spot set in the middle of the line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimDrUnDU2mWqjsDqw2BqZuhOM0qvxE3BHjt6s3Q3-Yqlmm0GXbtphgDzukDgL1kVEAh8okwY7TpCgqMacE-F_Lag_jQHpRJRYedC5HxnWDKttXnpJ6b0NVlWFnrLwJI9T8pp8WjTYHPo/s1600/IMG_3020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimDrUnDU2mWqjsDqw2BqZuhOM0qvxE3BHjt6s3Q3-Yqlmm0GXbtphgDzukDgL1kVEAh8okwY7TpCgqMacE-F_Lag_jQHpRJRYedC5HxnWDKttXnpJ6b0NVlWFnrLwJI9T8pp8WjTYHPo/s400/IMG_3020.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you see the original photos and the finished HDR picture</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-75pNRUi794s/UD5rwCshVyI/AAAAAAAAF-M/qkvOr-RoZYA/s1600/IMG_3017.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-75pNRUi794s/UD5rwCshVyI/AAAAAAAAF-M/qkvOr-RoZYA/s320/IMG_3017.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Screenshot from Laminar showing the adjusted curve </div>
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to create an overexposed photo.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0PZlCTspD9x3z4tbiA1uEV9l-4BmparN5I8Iyr2odTyCvB54nMl30r3D2YbaGvpcOC40AF7Mk28OLvut3WmDb5KOjrFjaS34PAx-vxHR-ysXeL72eQR5w0eZzJTjmy8R4obKLbgTqwU/s1600/IMG_3022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0PZlCTspD9x3z4tbiA1uEV9l-4BmparN5I8Iyr2odTyCvB54nMl30r3D2YbaGvpcOC40AF7Mk28OLvut3WmDb5KOjrFjaS34PAx-vxHR-ysXeL72eQR5w0eZzJTjmy8R4obKLbgTqwU/s320/IMG_3022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The black and white picture created from the TIFF file</div>
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using MonoPhix HD.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6B06lVUwhU1Pk_BTzqbk-lVxnKozKDZxn0kYy_Mc0ZaJnTUhq6IDdkWKs9q6SeNGjtoWoxFXJXf0_iU0pPPRvhHAvcWAAURnoTtUBV9e2GyZdst5_q5web2g0mtI4QoxiNCzqj-IR3E/s1600/IMG_3010.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6B06lVUwhU1Pk_BTzqbk-lVxnKozKDZxn0kYy_Mc0ZaJnTUhq6IDdkWKs9q6SeNGjtoWoxFXJXf0_iU0pPPRvhHAvcWAAURnoTtUBV9e2GyZdst5_q5web2g0mtI4QoxiNCzqj-IR3E/s320/IMG_3010.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After importing the files into Mobile HDR the processing</div>
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screen looked like this.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NO0s1eJc8BA/UD5vZV1vz7I/AAAAAAAAF-c/Xea-y_BBxNU/s1600/IMG_2988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NO0s1eJc8BA/UD5vZV1vz7I/AAAAAAAAF-c/Xea-y_BBxNU/s320/IMG_2988.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's yet another HDR picture created in a similar way than the picture on top of the page. In this case I created an underexposed version of the TIFF file to use with the set of 3 photos in <b>Mobile HDR</b>. Then I created a black and white version from the HDR picture in <b>MonoPhix HD</b>. I also tried <b>Snapseed </b>but I liked the result from <b>MonoPhix HD</b> more. Then I was opening the color HDR and the b/w HDR in <b>Blender</b>. The color version on the left side - the b/w version on the right side. Blending mode was "normal", with the slider set 25% to the left. This enhanced the colors and de-saturated the picture a bit at the same time.</div>
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As usual, a copyright watermark was added in <b>A+Signature</b>.</div>
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If you got questions please feel free to ask. You may also find me on Facebook. Just search for "quaffii" or "Gaston Graf".</div>
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Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-45088520485282524782012-08-06T19:44:00.002+02:002012-08-06T19:44:21.707+02:00Summertime...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rk3M39t6TsM/UB_3P0u4BCI/AAAAAAAAF8I/m3Df6au1kLw/s1600/IMG_2012_02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rk3M39t6TsM/UB_3P0u4BCI/AAAAAAAAF8I/m3Df6au1kLw/s400/IMG_2012_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera Apps used</b>: 645pro, BracketMode and Hipstamatic with Jane lens + Ina's 1982 film<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<br />And now I'm in trouble, cause I don't remember all the steps I took to create the pictures on this page, except for the Hipstamatic shots which are left unprocessed. For the rest there was:<br />
<b>iPhoto </b>- for local corrections. I love iPhoto for that feature!<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - for color corrections, fog effect and other.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the different versions to obtain different results, as usual. For instance, I added the frame in <b>Camera Awesome</b> but blended the result with the previous version to reduce the frame effect by 50% because I found it too strong.<br />
<b>Snapseed </b>- very useful for the detail functions, like "structure" which is about the same as the pseudo-HDR function of other apps is. I did two versions, one using <b>SimplyHDR </b>and one with the "structure" function in Snapseed and the outcome was about the same. Also <b>Snapseed </b>is great for creating b/w pictures. The b/w version of the above picture had been created using <b>Snapseed </b>with neutral filter but 25% of grain setting.<br />
<b>Pixlromatic </b>- for various retro filters which I mixed in <b>Blender</b>. Don't remember what combination I kept in the end, I'm sorry.<br />
<b>LensFlareHD </b>- to enhance the sunlight reflections in the chrome on the headlights, the fuel level indicator cap on the gas tank and on top of the rear view mirror. I did not add it to the reflection on the handle bar close to the risers and left it as it is. To place such light reflections precisely, move them in bigger size with two fingers to the destination, then use the controls panel to adjust size, brightness and rotation. After saving your picture, <b>LensFlareHD </b>reduces it a bit from 3264x2448 to 3072x2304 but you can easily get your original resolution back. Load any photo that has original size on the left side in Blender, then load the version you created with <b>LensFlareHD </b>on the right side. Pull the slider all to the right in "normal" blend mode and save your picture. If you check it with apps such as <b>ExifWizardPro </b>or the free <b>PhotoSize </b>you will see that it is back to original resolution.<br />
<b>ProHDR </b>- I did some photo sets with <b>BracketMode </b>but in the end I disliked the outcome of the HDR picture as I put them together in <b>ProHDR </b>so I used only the overexposed version for this photo.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the usual copyright watermarks. I also use it to mark my <b>Hipstamatic </b>shots with lens/film combo so I don't need to repeat this again and again when posting the photos to various Facebook groups.<br />
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The day before yesterday I felt for making some new pics of my bike, especially because it now has the Metzler Me880 Marathon tires mounted and because it had a different derby cover for a while. Usually it wears the Willie G. Skull derby cover but mine had been scratched so I wanted a new one but that one needed some time to arrive so I used the cover with the big bad Nr.1 on it. It's nice, but I like the skull cover much more. Yesterday I finally changed the cover and I made some more pics.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cNy3eaXqXts/UB__LkrH9WI/AAAAAAAAF9A/jS16vPBsYgQ/s1600/IMG_2024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cNy3eaXqXts/UB__LkrH9WI/AAAAAAAAF9A/jS16vPBsYgQ/s400/IMG_2024.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the b/w version I created using Snapseed. </div>
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No filter but 25% of grain. I like that!</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sb7TRCDl6Jk/UB_-oO5TkwI/AAAAAAAAF8c/wgFaHDEoC4Y/s1600/IMG_2015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sb7TRCDl6Jk/UB_-oO5TkwI/AAAAAAAAF8c/wgFaHDEoC4Y/s400/IMG_2015.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The photo from yesterday, with the Willie G. Skull derby cover. Photo made with the 645pro camera app. This time I was finally able to snap about a dozen shots before the damn app crashed again. I guess it's having a memory problem. If you close all apps that ran in the background, then reboot your iPhone the 645pro runs fine, until a given moment when it crashes again. And that's when the memory is filled up. I hope the developers will get that problem solved soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYN-r2zpYRKOlCzeeuADbNXDMD6zoiLq5AjOipvlkO1fDYlj-1d50NSrekywrPEgr612K-m-4JQ789qyr0pVHMny1ZJVgKuWZsAPEEhthE4GwVF0ZrYCZmAkY6v0JQjSN0OEf_6luqPQ/s1600/IMG_2018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYN-r2zpYRKOlCzeeuADbNXDMD6zoiLq5AjOipvlkO1fDYlj-1d50NSrekywrPEgr612K-m-4JQ789qyr0pVHMny1ZJVgKuWZsAPEEhthE4GwVF0ZrYCZmAkY6v0JQjSN0OEf_6luqPQ/s400/IMG_2018.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hipstamatic photo with the Bad Nr.1 derby cover</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYN-r2zpYRKOlCzeeuADbNXDMD6zoiLq5AjOipvlkO1fDYlj-1d50NSrekywrPEgr612K-m-4JQ789qyr0pVHMny1ZJVgKuWZsAPEEhthE4GwVF0ZrYCZmAkY6v0JQjSN0OEf_6luqPQ/s1600/IMG_2018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQYN-r2zpYRKOlCzeeuADbNXDMD6zoiLq5AjOipvlkO1fDYlj-1d50NSrekywrPEgr612K-m-4JQ789qyr0pVHMny1ZJVgKuWZsAPEEhthE4GwVF0ZrYCZmAkY6v0JQjSN0OEf_6luqPQ/s320/IMG_2018.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hipstamatic photo with the Willie G. Skull derby cover
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSxpC2C83Q55CGdy-3yT3G8FXZXu7graAwGnL0qWkN5LqVK8Chj7myyCDIDCcuxZAlBEGKI1Z9VFg6j8OXj6w8Az4Eiq2Jg4APWE1rf5XLbE2ERels1MAGB9s2hds-l_tXtXUXhCv8Ac/s1600/IMG_2021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSxpC2C83Q55CGdy-3yT3G8FXZXu7graAwGnL0qWkN5LqVK8Chj7myyCDIDCcuxZAlBEGKI1Z9VFg6j8OXj6w8Az4Eiq2Jg4APWE1rf5XLbE2ERels1MAGB9s2hds-l_tXtXUXhCv8Ac/s320/IMG_2021.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hipstamatic photo of the Willie G. Skull derby cover in detail.</div>
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-11498560967062242262012-07-15T00:10:00.000+02:002012-07-15T00:15:48.587+02:00Tiny Aliens<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OS736n0uBpQ/UAHiIyK8_AI/AAAAAAAAF3g/JiU46_okWDI/s1600/IMG_0389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OS736n0uBpQ/UAHiIyK8_AI/AAAAAAAAF3g/JiU46_okWDI/s400/IMG_0389.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera Apps</b>: Hipstamatic, CCD,<br />
<b>Extras</b>: Ollo Clip 3in1 Lens System, Macro Lens<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>PhotoForge2 </b>- for the usual High Pass versions needed for re-sharpening the photos.<br />
<b>PhotoWizard </b>- for the Emboss effect needed to work out the structure in the main picture. I was blending the embossed version 4x with the previous version in Blender to get the structure effect that you can see in the main picture (top)<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - for various enhancements and cropping operations. but especially for the Day for Night effect.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- for many blending operations.<br />
<b>ArtistaSketch HD</b> - for clean sketches of the photos needed to blend in Blender to bring out details in the picture. Pencil sketches are very useful to enhance the outlining in pictures. I usually blend them in either Multiply mode or Overlay mode. You must play around with it and see for yourself what works for your picture. I cannot provide you a basic recipe here. What works for one picture does not necessarily work for another picture as well. That's the experience I made.<br />
<b>TouchRetouch HD </b>- for touch-ups. Strangely there had been some ugly spots left on the drawings created with ArtistaSketch so I removed them before using the sketch version in Blender.<br />
<b>Laminar </b>- for it's great light system used in the picture where the mother plant deploys an egg from one of the cocoons.<br />
<b>iPhoto </b>- for local softening. I love iPhoto for it's "brushes" that can be used locally in pictures. If you want to apply an effect on the whole picture you can choose that option in the brush settings.<br />
<b>LensFlare HD</b> - for the light effects in the blue pictures. Sadly, working with LensFlare is a pain in the ass because it has no undo function which is very annoying to me, but in the end I managed to obtain some useful results nevertheless.<br />
<b>Pixlromatic </b>- for some of the frames.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermarks<br />
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Well.... two days ago I looked at one of my wife's flower pots purely by chance which let me discover a beautiful miniature "forest" of some strange little plant I never saw before. So I decided to photograph it. I made over 200 photos, but only few had been really useful. First I shot with the 645pro - the camera app that currently provides you the very best picture quality available on the iPhone. But the 645pro pissed me off once more because it ruined a countless number of really good shots as it crashed again and again. It might provide the best picture quality, but that's useless if the app is crashing that often. So I switched to CCD, which is the other app that saves dRAWs in TIFF format. It's a pure and rather simple camera app without all the fancy camera-simulator-wannabe-pro stuff that comes with the 645pro, but at least it works reliably. It never crashed.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0T0pyPgG34M/UAHiA_1MWcI/AAAAAAAAF3Y/m4HxoQHmivo/s1600/IMG_0386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0T0pyPgG34M/UAHiA_1MWcI/AAAAAAAAF3Y/m4HxoQHmivo/s400/IMG_0386.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The night scene of that little jungle of alien plants... I really love that miniature world in that flower pot! The night effect had been created with the "Day for Night" effect in Photo fx Ultra. The rays of light had been added with LensFlare HD. The frame was added in Pixlromatic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIXgaFpndsOIK1SyCc1nVwRi6J-AY58DHSBBDnyUaTFBwOJNL9B5BUjWTrb7k22g18r6P0pHru7tAiUz5tfGdoaU9x__5vRjGwJ1wCTteHRMEOQ6MZ3AnN0VLD_qQfEOJTUYqGbsBepQ/s1600/IMG_0384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIXgaFpndsOIK1SyCc1nVwRi6J-AY58DHSBBDnyUaTFBwOJNL9B5BUjWTrb7k22g18r6P0pHru7tAiUz5tfGdoaU9x__5vRjGwJ1wCTteHRMEOQ6MZ3AnN0VLD_qQfEOJTUYqGbsBepQ/s400/IMG_0384.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Alien Mother deploys an egg from one of the cocoons... Donno what strange little plant that is but isn't it fascinating how it grows in sort of a miniature jungle and how it multiplies itself? Other plants use the wind to distribute their seeds in the world, or use even living animals to carry the seeds to a location far from the mother plant. But this little plant deploys the seeds from cocoons it carries underneath. I only discovered this as I did some shots with the macro lens of the Ollo Clip. Here the iPhone plaid out it's big advantage of being slim and small, compared to other cameras, because there was only little space left in the flower pot to put the camera down enough for shooting from the ant view low over ground. The light effects had been created with Laminar first, then with LensFlare HD.<br />
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Hipstamatic shot of the tiny jungle. Combo used was John S lens with Ina's 1982 film<br />
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Another Hipstamatic shot made with the Ollo Clip Macro Lens. Combo John S / Ina's 1982.<br />
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The original CCD photo used to create the main picture on this page. I cropped it to 1:1 format using Squaready.<br />
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The flower pot, where that tiny little alien plant grows... Photo made with CCD, cropped and framed with Pixlromatic.<br />
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I'm sorry for not being able to provide you in depth step-by-step instructions about the making of of the pictures on this page but I really plaid around a lot with many different apps until I obtained satisfying results. But don't hesitate to contact me in case you got questions. I'll be happy to assist you with anything you want to know.<br />
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<b>Camera App</b>: 645pro<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>Superimpose </b>- to blend the b/w picture with the color picture in <i>Multiply </i>mode. I set the 645pro to picture format 645 and H5 b/w film as I took this photo. Like I have set it to save also the dRAW version of my photo I also got the colored RAW version in TIFF format. In Superimpose I was blending both versions, which enhanced color contrast nicely. Usually Picture Blender is my preferred app for blending, but in this case the result I got from Blender did not satisfy me. Also a disadvantage of Blender is that it cannot handle TIFF file format. But Superimpose can handle it so it was no problem to blend the colored sRAW TIFF with the b/w JPG.<br />
<b>SimplyHDR </b>- I was loading using SimplyHDR to create two HDR versions from the blended result in Superimpose and the original b/w JPG file. I created two versions, a normal one and one with brightness and contrast sliders pulled fully to the left = 0. Then I was loading both versions in SimplyHDR again to create an HDR picture from it, which worked just fine.<br />
<b>Ripped HD</b> - for the ripped frame.<br />
<b>A+Signature </b>- for the copyright watermark<br />
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This morning at work as I was on the way to my vehicle, which was electrical railcar Z2201, I came along the old shed #2 where I discovered good old 1816, "decorated" with some shitty Graffiti. It looks good, in some way, but on the other hand I must say I hate it to see how respectless people disgrace such old engines that served us well for more than five decades. The first Diesel engine of the 1800 series got delivered to our railroad company in 1964. I drove that type too, from the early 1990s 'til the early 2000s. I must say I hated the noise of the V16 two-stroke Diesel engine sometimes, but on the other hand I also enjoyed hauling freight trains with it. Now, as there are only 3 engines of this type left running in active service and the official good-bye ride beeing made last week-end, the type will soon vanish from our railroad network forever. One will be kept for museum rides, but the remaining rest is meant to be sold to an country unknown to me. Donno what 1816 was at the workshops today. I did some interesting testing of the new ETCS train safety system today with Z2201. As soon as the remaining problems are solved, all of our Z2200 series railcars will be equipped with the modern European Train Control System ETCS.Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-40011529138941693082012-06-23T17:33:00.000+02:002012-06-23T17:33:10.087+02:00Steam Radio<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Camera Apps used: <br />645pro </b>- for the main picture on this page (above) as well as the b/w version of it (below).<br />
<b>Hipstamatic </b>and <b>Hipstamatic D-Series</b> - for all other pictures.<br />
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<b>Accessories: </b>Ollo Clip 3in1 lens system, Macro lens.<br />
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<b>Additional apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>PhotoForge2 </b>- for the usual <i>High Pass</i> filter<br />
<b>ArtistaSketch </b>- for a clean sketch to enhance the outlines in the picture a bit.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend <i>High Pass</i> version with the original photo for smart sharpening. Later, Blender was used again to blend in the s<i>ketch </i>version to enhance the outlines. Setting was very low to avoid overdoing the effect.<br />
<b>SimplyHDR </b>- for a slight HDR effect with a smooth result.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - to enhance the picture further. Filters used: <i>Polarizer</i> and <i>Fog</i>.<br />
<b>Pixlromatic </b>- for the <i>Janine </i>film effect and later for the <i>Dim </i>frame.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - I loaded the picture again to apply the <span style="background-color: white;"><i>Day for Night</i> filter. I used only slight settings to tone down the colors a bit with a dark blue overlay.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>PhotoToaster </b>- for the <i>vignetting</i>. I love PhotoToaster for vignetting because it allows precise control of the effect.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>TouchRetouch </b>- for some minor touchups plus removing the actual date stamp in two of the Hipstamatic photos made with the <i>BlacKeys B+W</i> film.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>A+Signature</b> - for the usual copyright watermarks plus insertion of new dates in the previously mentioned <b>Hipstamatic </b>photos.</span><br />
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The main picture of this article shows four of the glass tubes that work in an old radio. It's a <b>Loewe Opta Venus-Stereo Type 4771W</b> build from 1959-1960. My set is still working fine, although its case would need some good restoration work to be done because it's in quite a bad condition. But the electrics still work fine. I thoroughly cleaned the interior before snapping my photos and I was amazed of the brilliant sound quality once more as I switched the radio on again after such a long time - WOW!<br />
<br />You can get additional information about this radio type at the <a href="http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/loewe_opta_venus_stereo_4771w_4771_w.html" target="_blank">RADIO MUSEUM</a>.<br />
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This is the original manual, photographed with the Hipstamatic on top of the radio.</div>
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I enjoy experimenting and I love the Hipstamatic so I tried a lot of combos and D-Series types. But I made the main picture with the 645pro attached to my tripod because I used it in low light condition to get the light effect from the glowing tubes and the light bulbs inside of the radio. I was setting the 645pro to night mode and I used the timer to avoid touching the iPhone. You can see some more Hipstamatic pictures below:</div>
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This is the version that I shared on Instagram. No post processing. Just a straight Hipstamatic shot.</div>
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Combo: MattyALN+BigUp</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series, Dreamy. </div>
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The transformer is behind the tubes.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series, Dreamy. </div>
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The turn-able ferrit antenna was used to eliminate disturbing parasite noises when listening to long wave and .medium wave stations.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series, Dreamy. </div>
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The electric current selector. You had to set the tension manually by loosening the screw and moving the little metal arm to the correct position. The circuit was protected by a little melting fuse of 0.6 Ampere also shown in this picture. The big tube partly visible on the far left reads "Made in Germany". Sadly, in our modern times everything's made in China, or other Asian countries now. The tubes had been manufactured by Telefunken in Germany.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.</div>
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This picture show one of the resistors. This one has a value of 2 Kilo-Ohm with a tolerance of 10% up and down.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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The external antenna connector, slightly damaged.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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Detail of the ferrit antenna. Copper winding around an iron core.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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Detail of another resistor above some diodes.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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The top of one of the tubes.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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Detail of the middle part of one of the tubes, glowing.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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Detail of the lower part of one of the tubes.</div>
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Hipstamatic with Loftus/DC combo + Ollo Clip macro lens.
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Another detail shot of a tube.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series BlacKeys44.</div>
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I love that camera!</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series BlacKeys44.
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Details of the wires on top of the transformer.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series BlacKeys44.
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A b/w shot of the complete ferrit antenna unit. Note the strings running on pulleys to turn the antenna when you turn on the radio knob.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series BlacKeys44.
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The tubes with the transformer and one of the stereo speakers.</div>
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Hipstamatic D-Series BlacKeys44.
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Tubes, ferrit antenna and the connectors for an external antenna (left) as well as for a tape recorder (right).</div>
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645pro for the original photo, but the b/w version was made from the finished color version using Pixlromatic. I applied two b/w effects here: Agatha and Joyce. Used the Clip frame.</div>
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If you got questions about my pictures please don't hesitate to contact me. Additionally you may find me on Facebook as well as on Instagram. Just search for "quaffit" :o).</div>
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<br /></div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-16050016819155153702012-06-05T00:43:00.000+02:002012-06-18T23:33:43.307+02:00Buttercup Bud<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76snga6t_Ug/T801PIgkOzI/AAAAAAAAFwU/7xBW7xmRA28/s1600/IMG_6869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76snga6t_Ug/T801PIgkOzI/AAAAAAAAFwU/7xBW7xmRA28/s400/IMG_6869.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: 645pro<br />
Extras: Ollo Clip 3in1 Lens System, Macro Lens<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
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<b>PhotoForge2 </b>- for a High Pass filter version<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to re-sharpen the photo a bit by blending the High Pass version with the original photo in Overlay mode<br />
<b>ArtistaSketch </b>- for a clean pencil sketch version<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the pencil version with the previous version to enhance sharpness, contrast and colors<br />
<b>MokuHD </b>- to see what result Moku will give me...<br />
<b>AristaOil </b>- to see that my picture will look like in oil...<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to see what the result will be when blending the Moku version with the Oil version - and I liked the outcome a lot!<br />
<b>Blender and Blender again</b> - to blend that version with the Sketch version again, then with the Oil version again, then with the original photo again to enhance details...<br />
<b>Camera+</b> - for the beautiful vintage paper frame<br />
<b>Pixlromatic </b>- for the Perga frame. I love the Camera+ frame a lot but I wanted to make it look a bit different on this picture.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark handwritten signature as well as the markings on the composition of the steps I took to make this picture.<br />
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Sometimes it pays to put your work aside and let it sleep for a while if you aren't completely satisfied with it. In this case I was playing around with some apps for a while but I wasn't satisfied with the outcome of my picture so I dropped it, but I didn't delete the files. That was about two weeks ago. Now I had a different idea. I created an Artista Moku version as well as an Artista Oil version and I liked the outcome a lot. Then I was blending both versions in Blender and I was blown away by the beautiful result I got. Playing around with Blender a bit more I finally created a picture that I really loved. What about you? Do you like it?</div>
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The composition above show you some of the steps I took to create this picture. If you got questions about techniques used please feel free to leave your comment. You may also find me on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/quaffit. Add me as your friend and we may discuss iPhoneography in detail if you like.</div>
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-5778304592834928402012-06-04T08:47:00.000+02:002012-06-04T09:02:08.608+02:00Geranium...After the Rain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cf1cbmTVLLA/T8xP_3K6NoI/AAAAAAAAFwI/qDA0aRWFq9Q/s1600/IMG_6828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cf1cbmTVLLA/T8xP_3K6NoI/AAAAAAAAFwI/qDA0aRWFq9Q/s400/IMG_6828.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: CCD<br />
<b>Extras</b>: Ollo Clip 3in1 Lens System, Macro Lens<br />
<b>Nomad Brush</b>: to paint on masks<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for postprocessing</b>:<br />
<b>PhotoForge2 </b>- for converting the original TIFF file into JPG format to process it in Blender because Blender cannot read TIFFs. Also I created a High Pass version of my photo to use it in Blender for the usual sharpening process.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to sharpen my photo a bit more using the High Pass technique. I usually create a High Pass version in PhotoForge2 where I apply a High Pass filter with a setting of something between 100-200. I save that version and blend it in Blender with the original photo in Overlay mode, original photo on the left side, High Pass version on the right side. Moving the slider quickly shows the change in sharpness and contrast. Settle where you like it the most and save the result. You don't need to save every step you took in Blender before adding another layer (version of your picture) to blend with the previous one. All you need to do is holding your finger on the screen until a menu appears where you can choose "flatten" from. Then your blended picture goes to the left side and the right side is free to add another version to it. Tapping your screen once brings up the menu to choose from editing or arranging of your layers. You may change your top layer's position and size, or in edit mode you may apply a mask. The pencil behaves in relation to the zoom factor. The more you zoom in, the smaller the pencil will be, hence the more detailed you can work with it. Strokes may also be erased again, indeed.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - to use the Polarizer filter for enhancing the colors a bit.<br />
<b>ArtistaOil HD </b>- to create an oil painting version<br />
<b>ArtistaSketch HD </b>- to create a clean sketch version. I used a dark violet pencil this case<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend oil and sketch and previous version again and again with different slider settings. Also I applied a mask in Blender to save sharpness in the center of the picture.<br />
<b>RippedHD </b>- for the frame. I use my Nomad brush a lot when editing pictures. It's very handy for painting masks precisely or for defining the ripped off parts in a picture when using RippedHD.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - still my favorite app to apply my copyright watermark.<br />
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Bad weather actually - too bad for riding my bike, so I used the occasion to play around a bit with my Ollo Clip macro lens once again. The flower looks big on the picture but in fact it's only a small part of a Geranium flower that I pictured with the Ollo Clip.<br />
CCD is really a great app if you want to get maximum picture quality in RAW format without any effects applied to it. Most camera apps as well as the integrated software of modern compact cameras optimize your photo before it is being saved. that's why you get stunning results when using camera programs. Usually only DSRLs are also capable of saving your photo in a clean format, without any optimization, which is called the RAW format. You need a RAW converter, a special software usually provided by your DSLR manufacturer to convert your RAW files into a format usable in other software, such as JPG or TIFF. Currently there are two camera apps available in the app store that are capable of converting RAW data into a format usable for post processing. These are "645pro" and "CCD". While the 645pro simulates a well done camera with many settings plus some films and different picture format settings it's current version (1.11) unfortunately runs very unstable. If you take another photo before the previous one had been fully saved in TIFF format, which takes a little while, the app usually crashes and no picture will be saved. This is not the case with CCD. which is very quick and very reliable. You can take up to 4 pictures in sequence before the indicator turns red, but the files in memory are quickly saved so you don't need to worry too much about this. Other than 645pro, CCD saves only TIFF files, no JPG. In 645pro you can set your picture quality to save uncompressed JPGs + TIFF, which needs processing time. The 645pro generally is really an outstanding app which I only can recommend to buy. Currently it's only disadvantage is instability but I'm sure it's developers work already on this to correct it with a future update of the app. I especially love the black and white films of the 645pro. The great thing about RAW format saving is that the 645pro saves you a b/w JPG but also the RAW file in color.<br />
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Got a question? Please leave me a comment and I'll answer it. Or you may find me on Facebook. Just search for "quaffit".<br />
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-29247856501740604662012-05-03T00:25:00.000+02:002012-06-04T13:49:53.279+02:00Cleaning the Roof... (and other Macro photos made with the iPhone)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pxgTSuYILJg/T6Gltg5wZFI/AAAAAAAAFuw/jF06l0MMxTs/s1600/IMG_4933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pxgTSuYILJg/T6Gltg5wZFI/AAAAAAAAFuw/jF06l0MMxTs/s320/IMG_4933.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Camera App: 645 pro + Ollo Clip Macro Lens (for this picture as well as for all the other)<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used (for the main picture):</b><br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - for slight cropping.<br />
<b>iPhoto </b>- for sharpening of the snail's eye.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> again - for manually re-drawing lines to add sharpness to the eye's outlines.<br />
<b>TouchRetouch HD</b> - for some touchups<br />
<b>PhotoForge2 </b>- for slight sharpening + a high pass effect which had been saved as a new picture.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the high pass version with the previous version to enhance sharpness and contrast. Setting was 100%<br />
<b>ArtistaSketch </b>- to create a pencil drawn sketch with nice outlines because outlining is important to improve sharpness as well as to add the drawing effect.<br />
<b>Blender </b>again - to blend the previous version with the Artista version in Overlay mode, which made it a very nice drawing. Setting 50/50.<br />
<b>TouchRetouch HD </b>again - because I discovered some more spots that I wanted to remove from the picture.<br />
<b>Blender </b>again - to blend the last version with the ArtistaSketch version again, but this time I set the slider only to 20%. You gotta play around with the slider. Stop where you like the effect the most. Move back an forth to see the differences of the effect.<br />
<b>Camera+ </b>- for the Vintage frame. I love the old paper frame for Macro photos!<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the hand signature.<br />
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Since the new 645pro App became available I became even more fascinated of macro photography because the image quality of this app is really outstanding, compared to other apps. The 645pro had been made for Pro's they say, or for ambitious hobby photographers. It's a bit more complicated to handle than simple point and click apps but it rewards its user with an image quality not matched by other apps. You can save your photos in lossless JPG (wich lets your files grow up to 12Mb) and you can save them in RAW format, or to be more correct, you can save them in dRAW TIFF format, which means "developed RAWs" are saved in lossless TIFF format. But the TIFFs are saved in a dedicated memory space which is only accessible via iTunes. If you want to process your TIFFs you gotta transfer them to your computer first, then re-transfer them to your iPhone or iPad for processing. This might be a bit annoying, but it's worth the effort.<br />
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Even after the latest update, working with the 645pro is very energy consuming so I highly recommend you to have an external battery pack at your disposal or you'll soon run out of power. I use a Mophie Juice pack with 2000mAh, but there are others available with even more power.<br />
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The Ollo Clip is one of the greatest accessories ever made for the iPhone. With an outstanding app like the 645pro this outstanding accessory becomes even better. I really enjoy doing macro photos with the 645pro + Ollo Clip. Here are some more examples of my latest pictures:<br />
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<b>Dandelion, after the morning rain...</b></div>
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<b>Honey Bee...</b></div>
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<b>Grrrrr...</b></div>
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<b>Diggin' for Gold?</b></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UI0W-UaRMNc/T6GyVDVTAmI/AAAAAAAAFvc/cwyPJMBM5HY/s1600/IMG_4686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UI0W-UaRMNc/T6GyVDVTAmI/AAAAAAAAFvc/cwyPJMBM5HY/s320/IMG_4686.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Beware! (an angry little crab spider in defensive position)</b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tgm2W02HR2M/T6GynE0kULI/AAAAAAAAFvk/dadPQCOtzkc/s1600/IMG_4691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tgm2W02HR2M/T6GynE0kULI/AAAAAAAAFvk/dadPQCOtzkc/s320/IMG_4691.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Hey bro, did you eat my greenfly?</b></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-81X7jbrRfnM/T6Gy4DmkUKI/AAAAAAAAFvs/IPWltKMuSWI/s1600/IMG_4711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-81X7jbrRfnM/T6Gy4DmkUKI/AAAAAAAAFvs/IPWltKMuSWI/s320/IMG_4711.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Tomatoe...</b></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUGQd1achbY/T6GzPYNyReI/AAAAAAAAFv0/FWdoMvdFMGk/s1600/IMG_4804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUGQd1achbY/T6GzPYNyReI/AAAAAAAAFv0/FWdoMvdFMGk/s320/IMG_4804.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Zipper...</b></div>
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<b>Old Sparky</b></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kGm2P2xVTE0/T6GwvW6CRQI/AAAAAAAAFvE/wWVf6vBzKEU/s1600/IMG_4500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kGm2P2xVTE0/T6GwvW6CRQI/AAAAAAAAFvE/wWVf6vBzKEU/s320/IMG_4500.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Instagram versions (1:1 square format) of my pictures can now be purchased from my gallery at <a href="http://instacanv.as/quaffit" target="_blank">Instacanv.as, </a>printed on real canvas!</div>
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-4209906037252951982012-04-21T23:18:00.000+02:002012-04-21T23:18:04.469+02:00Alu-Chips!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xVtIH2CdzmY/T5MfKlAEuGI/AAAAAAAAFug/QEixDs3BFGY/s1600/IMG_4316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xVtIH2CdzmY/T5MfKlAEuGI/AAAAAAAAFug/QEixDs3BFGY/s400/IMG_4316.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: 645 pro<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing</b>:<br />
<b>Moku Hanga HD </b>- for a Moku painting version<br />
<b>procreate </b>+ Nomad brush - to repaint parts of the picture because I wasn't fully satisfied with the outcome of the Moku painting. Procreate is really a brilliant app! I love it! Unfortunately it only supports up to 1920x1408 resolution and no 1:1 format but this isn't a problem. Just import your 1:1 basic photo and when you're done crop it back to 1:1 format in <b>Squaready</b>.<br />
<b>Squaready</b> - for the cropping.<br />
<b>TouchRetouch HD - </b>for some touchups.<br />
<b>Pixlromatic </b>- for a special b/w effect.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- I used Blender a lot to blend the b/w version with the color version quite a few times. The color version was a bit too brownish for my taste.<br />
<b>Camera+ </b>- for the frame, which I cropped down to a smaller frame using Squaready.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the usual copyright watermark.<br />
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In the former German Democratic Republic people used to refer to their coins as being "alu chips" because the 1, 5, 10, 50 Pfennig pieces as well as the 1 and 2 Mark pieces had been made of a lightweight alloy that sure contained a lot of aluminum. But not all coins had been made of that alloy. In my picture you can see a big 20 Mark coin as well as a reversed 5 Mark coin (Meißen) which had been made of a Nickel alloy. I still have a good hand full of GDR coins which are linked to some very special memories of mine because my beloved wife is from GDR. Back in 1985 GDR still existed. I lived there for 7 weeks after a long 5 1/2 month separation from her because the Commies didn't grant me a VISA anymore after she had filed in her official request to marry a foreigner (me). But luck was on our side and could marry the same year. December 24, 1985 I received the most wonderful Christmas gift of my life as my wife could leave GDR to move to Luxembourg where she arrived on December the 24th.Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-20220566958706779042012-04-09T20:56:00.000+02:002012-04-09T21:07:22.351+02:00Madame, mir hun Iech gär!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIiyrIpID2E/T4MRT17pc_I/AAAAAAAAFuQ/5YqtujNdyHI/s1600/IMG_4171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIiyrIpID2E/T4MRT17pc_I/AAAAAAAAFuQ/5YqtujNdyHI/s320/IMG_4171.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: Hipstamatic with Melodie lens + Dream Canvas film<br />
<b>iPhone model</b>: 4S<br />
<b>Accessories</b>: Ollo Clip Wide Angle Lens<br />
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<b>Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>Moku HD</b> - for the painting effect<br />
<b>VinstageScene </b>- for the old photo effect<br />
<b>iPhoto </b>- for fine tuning, repair and duo tone effect<br />
<b>PicGrunger </b>- for the metal structure and metal frame<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark<br />
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I borrowed the title for this picture from Luxembourg's former Prime Minister Pierre Dupong, who welcomed our former Grand-Duchess Josephine Charlotte with the very same words on April 14th, 1945 as she finally returned from exile in Canada, where she spend the war time with the grand-ducal family. The words "<i>Madame, mir hun Iech gär</i>" translate as "<i>Madam, we love you</i>".<br />
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Through all of her life, the Grand-Duchess was extremely popular in Luxembourg. So is her son, Prince Jean, later Grand-Duke and father of the actual Grand-Duke Henry. He landed with the Irish Guards in Normandy June 11, 1944 and fought his way with that unit through to Belgium. He entered the City of Luxembourg on September 10, 1944 together with US troops. As soon as the population identified Prince Jean, they left the buildings and cellars where they sought shelter from the still ongoing fights between the Americans and retreating Germans. But as soon as Prince Jean stepped off a US military vehicle, the streets had been crowded with the cheering masses, giving him a very heartily welcome. It was an important moment for the moral of the population. Prince Jean was back home again, the Germans fled from our American liberators.... But still the war wasn't over as the Battle of the Bulge was yet to come in the hard Winter of 1944/45.<br />
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Grand-Duchess Charlotte was born January 23, 1896 and died July 9, 1985 at the age of 89.<br />
I made the photo that served me for the creation of this picture last summer as I took the occasion for a photo walk through Luxembourg City while my motorbike was the garage for maintenance. It shows the Memorial of Grand-Duchess Charlotte with Notre Dame Cathedral in the background. The beautifully sculpted bronze statue stands at the "Place Clairefontaine", next to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in the center of Luxembourg-City. Designed by the French artist Jean Cardot, it got inaugurated April 29, 1990, by the grand-ducal family in presence of Prime Minister Jacques Santer and other officials.<br />
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-25061946524287706302012-04-08T22:29:00.000+02:002012-04-08T22:40:06.281+02:00Dandelion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguNzLE1qe8KJUJ89Pqphn1PxI8m4byqPs-WwCtbxAsTitBTsE8YpX6_d9Vm922DKyildkYGKp6HZoGpAsaMQ0ZxG8KjRhv3gwjHVbxmttmuuAOBR7V5Hz3a0XdO_owmRcN5KJpDR6MKIU/s1600/IMG_4156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguNzLE1qe8KJUJ89Pqphn1PxI8m4byqPs-WwCtbxAsTitBTsE8YpX6_d9Vm922DKyildkYGKp6HZoGpAsaMQ0ZxG8KjRhv3gwjHVbxmttmuuAOBR7V5Hz3a0XdO_owmRcN5KJpDR6MKIU/s320/IMG_4156.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: Hipstamatic with Ina's 1969 film + JamesM lens, flash off<br />
<b>iPhone Model</b>: 4S<br />
<b>Accessories</b>: Ollo Clip Macro Lens<br />
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<b>Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>Moku Hanga HD</b> - this is JixpiPix' new app! It comes with the same good user interface known already the other apps made by JixiPix. I love this app! It offers a lot of new creative possibilities to every iPhonoegrapher.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- one of my all time favorite apps. Like so many times before, I used this app a lot on this picture too.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - to enhance the <i>colors </i>as well as to create a <i>pencil </i>version.<br />
<b>PhotoForge2</b> - for a <i>High Pass Filter</i>. I saved that version to blend it in <b>Blender </b>with the previous color version. This was done to enhance <i>contrast </i>and <i>sharpness</i>. Then I was blending that result with the <i>pencil</i> version I had created with <b>Photo fx Ultra</b> to bring out the <b>Moku </b>structure a little more.<br />
<b>TouchRetouchHD </b>- for a minor correction. I removed a simple black spot from the picture.<br />
<b>Squaready </b>- to crop off the original <b>Hipstamatic</b> border. I cropped it off so late because I wanted to keep it first, but then I found it didn't look good on that picture anymore.<br />
<b>Camera+</b> - for the <i>Vintage </i>border.<br />
<b>A+Signature</b> - for the Copyright watermark.<br />
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Well, it's finally Spring time and with all the Easter Bunnies hopping around also the Dandelion is blooming. I love that plant! It's blossoms are beautiful and it's semen is a little masterpiece of Mother Nature when it ripens and flies off on tiny little "parachutes" to secure the continued existence of this wonderful plant. Also one can make a very tasty salad from its leaves and tea from it's roots. Dandelion is a very valuable herb used in medicine by Native Americans, Chinese and Europeans. If you're interested to learn more about the values of the Dandelion I suggest you following this very informative <b><a href="http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/dandelion-000236.htm" target="_blank">Link to a page of the Medical Center of the University of Maryland.</a></b><br />
I had a lot of fun making this picture. Once the blossoms will be gone, this and many other Dandelion will sure end up in my salad bowl ;o).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cgT6GGzJHnA/T4H3C-EOySI/AAAAAAAAFuE/DEV2STjxkJk/s1600/IMG_4157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cgT6GGzJHnA/T4H3C-EOySI/AAAAAAAAFuE/DEV2STjxkJk/s200/IMG_4157.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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The photo serving to create this picture was made of the lower one of the three blossoms.</div>
<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-26939877810730948072012-03-11T21:14:00.001+01:002012-03-11T21:40:28.434+01:00Mud Bike...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVCoWrfj9qaFosLySjfe_rRslkMeEjrDkJt9zZpCzcyH1slaeLfk68cnABmpu3NAlQvtx4j6j66Tf722VaW1v8IOqJRihPvBFoHejpOqqEfRJg7lnlaGktY_5M5uCL5NP_vxr61gSsYIM/s1600/IMG_3470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVCoWrfj9qaFosLySjfe_rRslkMeEjrDkJt9zZpCzcyH1slaeLfk68cnABmpu3NAlQvtx4j6j66Tf722VaW1v8IOqJRihPvBFoHejpOqqEfRJg7lnlaGktY_5M5uCL5NP_vxr61gSsYIM/s400/IMG_3470.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App:</b> iPhone standard app in HDR mode<br />
<b>iPhone Model</b>: 4S<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for processing:</b><br />
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<b>ProHDR </b>- to create an enhanced version of the already saved HDR picture made with the iPhone camera app. I did the <b>ProHDR </b>version from the two photos the <b>iPhone camera app </b>saved.<br />
<b>SimplyHDR </b>- to enhance the HDR picture further.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra </b>- for the filters <i>Polarizer, Fog, X-Ray</i>. I did a black&white <i>X-Ray</i> version, not a blue one.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the different versions I created with <b>Photo fx Ultra</b>.<br />
<b>Camera Awesome</b> - for the frame.<br />
A+Signature - for the copyright watermark.<br />
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Spring is finally coming, with more and more days to ride my bike again - yeah! But sometimes it happens you start your day on dry roads, ride to the place you meet your friends, ride up to<a href="http://www.high-chapparal.com/" target="_blank"> Ed's High Chapparal</a> bar for a drink, and when you come out the door again you discover it had rained the time you was inside. Because it had rained only slightly we decided to continue our journey nevertheless, but on the way to the old town of Echternach the roads became really wet. I did not rain anymore, but the water spray from our own bikes as well as from the cars on the roads covered us up in mud. Because my feet had already been soaked I did not put on my rain clothes anymore. Having arrived at home with sunset, the mud dried quickly but the bike was still too hot to wash it so I decided to clean it today. But before I started cleaning I made some photos of the dirty gas tank with the Harley Davidson logo on it. Today was really a nice day. Did only a 77.6km ride but that one was really big fun, making me feel really good.<br />
<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-73927747637908268052012-02-20T23:31:00.000+01:002012-02-20T23:32:21.639+01:00At Last!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vh-t2MMWx_M/T0K9EnqmP6I/AAAAAAAAFs0/qZJWTKAJeTg/s1600/IMG_2631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vh-t2MMWx_M/T0K9EnqmP6I/AAAAAAAAFs0/qZJWTKAJeTg/s400/IMG_2631.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Camera: iPhone 4S<br />
Camera App: Bracket Mode<br />
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Apps used for post processing:<br />
Pro HDR - to create an HDR picture from the shots made with Bracket Mode<br />
Photo fx Ultra - for most of the work. I don't remember all the steps I took to create this picture. I had been playing around with a bunch of apps, but in the end I found Photo fx Ultra provided me almost everything I needed.<br />
FilterStorm Pro - to remove some noise in the sky as well as for some minor touch-ups using the clone tool.<br />
Photo Toaster - for the frame.<br />
A+Signature - for the copyright watermark.<br />
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After a long time of total abstinence I could finally ride again today - Yeah! The last time I danced with my big beautiful doll was on November 20, 2011, which means I had to wait for this moment exactly for three long months. What a pleasure to fire that baby up again, hearing the gnarling Big Twin again on low rpm, purring like a cat at 3000rpm, roaring like a beast beyond the 4000... But I rarely pushed it that far today. Weather was beautiful and sunny, but still it was cold, and still there are wet spots on the roads, especially where they pass in the shadow of buildings, hedges or the woods. Such places are to be passed with care because they can be slippery. Had no adherence problems though. I enjoyed a nice little 50 miles tour across country roads with a photo stop on the road between the villages of Schandel and Grosbous. How nice to hear the buzzards screaming in the air as I shot my photos, but even nicer was it to hear the cranes again! I heard them long before I saw them but then I spotted a huge flock of cranes flying north. They return, which means winter's on retreat, and I can ride again more often - Oh Yeah!<br />
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I did no photo shooting for weeks because the weather was so bad and today I wanted to finally play around with the Hipstamatic again but I got badly disappointed by it because it did not stop crashing after I shot only a few photos. So I dropped it to shoot my 1:1 format photos with the 6x6 camera app as well regular format photos with Bracket Mode. After I returned home I realized that the Hipstamatic hadn't finished the processing of my full film roll yet. It kept on crashing until I finally did a reboot of my iPhone. It's too sad - the more new updates with new lenses and films the Hipstamatic developer team releases, the more unstable the Hipstamatic becomes. I remember a time when I had much fun photographing with the Hipstamatic on my old iPhone 3GS. Less lenses, less films, rare crashes, but much fun!<br />
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At least I could make some photos with the new Hipsta pack Americana lens + US1776 film:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2edlVOGWY1QaDXdqz2RUGj3L-O9bHmJY9oR2bvjzPyUL1E48UZPdWPrH6WO1WJGgSOjcf6bw8xhp_6qmi3sQqSXGKg8NYdQpVP2cUSh7AtBDYgSCqeQnDjZGw9SJq2KORz-wDerSyPg/s1600/IMG_2653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2edlVOGWY1QaDXdqz2RUGj3L-O9bHmJY9oR2bvjzPyUL1E48UZPdWPrH6WO1WJGgSOjcf6bw8xhp_6qmi3sQqSXGKg8NYdQpVP2cUSh7AtBDYgSCqeQnDjZGw9SJq2KORz-wDerSyPg/s400/IMG_2653.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-26819547799462153512012-01-16T09:11:00.002+01:002012-01-16T09:11:27.612+01:00Turn of an Era<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uiWNbZl9Crs/TxPQomj8w-I/AAAAAAAAFsA/U-go01svRhk/s1600/IMG_2146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uiWNbZl9Crs/TxPQomj8w-I/AAAAAAAAFsA/U-go01svRhk/s320/IMG_2146.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: iPhone4S camera in HDR mode.<br />
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<b>Apps used for post-processing:</b><br />
<b>Iris - </b>for cropping<br />
<b>ProHDR </b>- to enhance the original photo further.<br />
<b>Photo Toaster</b> - for the <i>X-Pro</i> effect.<br />
<b>TonaloptiaHD </b>- for a black&white version.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- blending the b/w version with the color version in Overlay mode neatly enhanced colors and contrast. It's a basic procedure I use quite often to enhance photos.<br />
<b>Pixlromantic </b>- this app comes with a great basic bundle of effects but if you want to have them all it becomes more expensive than the legendary <b>Hipstamatic </b>with all of its packages. However, <b>Pixlromatic </b>is absolutely worth the buy. I used it on this picture to give the clouds a more dramatic appearance by using the <i>Bluegrad </i>light filter.<br />
<b>FilterStorm Pro </b>- to <i>de-saturate</i> the picture a bit as well as for adding a <i>vignetting </i>effect. I prefer <b>FilterStorm Pro</b> for vignetting because the effect is well adjustable. <b>Photo Toaster</b> comes with a collection of vignetting effects too but all effects are too intense for my taste. I prefer a subtle transition from edges to center.<br />
<b>Photo Toaster</b> again - for the <i>frame</i>. On the other two photos I used <b>Photo Toaster</b> also for the <i>scratches </i>on the photo of the building entrance. The scratches on the second photo had been added using <b>King Camera</b> because I did not want the same scratches on two different photos. <b>King Camera's</b> advantage is it to allow a combination of up to 3 textures which can all be adjusted separately.<br />
<b>A+ Signature</b> - for the usual copyright watermark.<br />
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The sadness continues.... times are changing at the old Railroad Yard in Luxembourg-City. The old buildings have to make room for the new workshops that are urgently needed for maintenance and repairs of modern trains and locomotives. The above picture shows one of the "devastators" feasting on the debris of Roundhouse #1. The building in the background (left) is doomed to be demolished too. The pictures below show the old office building where I reported for service since January 2nd, 1990. I intentionally applied the Cross Process effect on this set of photos because I love it. Although many photo apps come with X-Pro effects, not all are really usable (to me). But I love the effect as it is provided by Photo Toaster.<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">Tip:</span></b><i><span style="color: red;"> If you think an effect is too intense you can change the intensity in an app that supports blending in Normal mode, such as <b>Blender, Iris, PhotoWizard </b>or <b>FilterStorm Pro</b>. Just lay the picture version with the effect over the version without effect in Normal mode. You may then adjust its intensity by moving the slider. It's like making the effect layer more or less translucent, letting the original picture shine through.</span></i><br />
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<br />Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-56339582168702917042012-01-07T15:30:00.002+01:002012-01-07T15:30:36.598+01:00Awaiting the End<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KacWzNXLhhE/TwhRp16czLI/AAAAAAAAFrw/eqHEexBzYFw/s1600/IMG_2008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KacWzNXLhhE/TwhRp16czLI/AAAAAAAAFrw/eqHEexBzYFw/s400/IMG_2008.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera App</b>: Hipstamatic + Lucas AB2 lens + DC film<br />
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<b>Additional Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>TonaloptiaHD </b>- for toning the yellowish original photo down.<br />
<b>Ripped HD</b> - for the ripped out effect.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the ripped version with the original version in <i>Overlay</i> mode. Then I was blending the result again with the original photo, 50/50 in <i>Normal </i>mode. I did this blending to bring back art of the photo structure.<br />
<b>Pixlromantic</b> - for the frame. There are now a whole lot of great in-app purchases available for Pixlromantic. With all the packages it's sure not one of the cheapest apps but it's worth the money, in my opinion, because it really provides a whole lot of great effects and frames.<br />
<b>FilterStorm Pro </b>- to apply a mask for the yellow of the demolishing machine which is visible in the window because I wanted to give it back a touch of color as an eye catcher.<br />
<b>Perfectly Clear</b> - to enhance the picture.<br />
<b>A+ Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark.<br />
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One of the past days I visited the old building we call "Hotel Simon" at Luxembourg Railroad Yard, which is now being emptied. Surrounded by the debris of the previously demolished roundhouse, the demolishing machines are now waiting outside to take on their next victim, which will be this old building. I made this photo of a window at the locker room as the room was being emptied, workers taking out the remaining lockers behind my back. Some lockers hadn't been emptied by their users until deadline so the workers had to cut off the padlocks and empty the lockers themselves. The books at the windowsill sure had been long forgotten as they are old books of locomotives not running anymore.<br />
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-52265229491887251022011-12-22T22:59:00.000+01:002011-12-22T23:01:24.053+01:00Lest We Forget<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INaSnFPaPJo/TvOUvrwHlnI/AAAAAAAAFk8/sxv4u3k961U/s1600/IMG_1609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INaSnFPaPJo/TvOUvrwHlnI/AAAAAAAAFk8/sxv4u3k961U/s400/IMG_1609.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera</b>: Canon EOS40D with 17-85mm EF USM<br />
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<b>Original RAW file developed and cropped with Canon Digital Photo Professional</b><br />
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<b>Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>1) SimplyHDR </b>- for a HDR version of the photo.<br />
<b>2) ArtistaOil</b> - for a simulated oil painting.<br />
<b>3) Blender</b> - to blend the HDR version with the oil version 50/50. This added some details to the oil version which was important for the crosses in the background.<br />
<b>4) FilterStorm Pro</b> - I imported the Blender result and the HDR version into FilterStorm Pro where I painted a mask to erase the grave cross and the flowers from the oil layer so that it was coming through from the HDR layer.<br />
<b>5) Blender</b> - I blend the FilterStorm result with the result from <b>step 3</b> again to smooth the edges of the flowers and cross.<br />
<b>6) Photo fx Ultra </b>- to add a <i>glow </i>effect.<br />
<b>7) Blender</b> - to blend the result from <b>step 6 </b>with the result from <b>step 5.</b><br />
<b>8) Photo fx Ultra again </b>- to add the <i>Depth of Field </i>effect. This nicely blurred the background a bit.<br />
<b>9) TouchRetouch HD </b>- to remove an unwanted lantern pole from the background.<br />
<b>10) Camera+ </b>- to add the nice <i>Vintage </i>border.<br />
<b>11) ArtisataOil </b>again - to create an oil version with the a maximum of bristle depth and canvas effect. I did this because I wanted some texture in the frame.<br />
<b>12) FilterStorm Pro</b> again - I imported the results from <b>steps 10+11</b> into FilterStorm and painted a mask over the frame to bring the texture out.<br />
<b>13) TouchRetouch </b>- to touch up the inner border of the frame a bit.<br />
<b>14) Crop 'n Frame </b>- to cut the very large frame to smaller size again. I usually prefer the neat little tool Crop Suey for this but it apparently has some problems with large files because it used to crash.<br />
<b>15) A+Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark.<br />
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<i>It was on May 4, 2008, as I visited the US Military Cemetery Meuse-Argonne in Romagne in France together with two friends of mine. It's the largest US Military Cemetery in France, if not in Europe, where more than 14,000 men found their final rest. One of them is <b>Sergeant Bernard L. Pohlpeter </b>(photo) who fought with the<b> L Company</b> of the <b>126th US Army Infantry Regiment, 32nd Division</b>. He got killed in action in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive in October 1918, only one month before the war ended on November the 11th. I did some research about Sergeant Pohlpeter and I found a copy of his regiments history online at this page: <a href="http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~muskegoncounty/Military/OldCommand/The%20Old%20Command.htm" target="_blank"><b>The Old Command</b></a>. His grave is at <b>Plot F, row 12, grave 23</b>.</i></div>
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<i>Although the day of death marked on Sergeant Pohlpeter's cross is October the 12th, 1918, he is listed in his regiments casualties list on page 42 as having been KIA on October the 5th. Reading through the regiment's history I also found no report about combat action of his unit for October the 12th but the unit took heavy casualties in the time from October 4-5. So I now wonder what's the truth is. </i></div>
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<i>As we walked the beautifully made cemetery in awe and respect, we spoke little because nobody wanted to disturb the silence on that place where so many of those men rest who fought for our freedom. So many graves... so many names... so many individual destinies... It really fills on'e heart with sadness to see so many white crosses on such huge fields.</i></div>
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-84730002446230688982011-12-21T01:30:00.000+01:002012-06-18T22:39:56.537+02:00The Ruins of Montfaucon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Camera:</b> Canon EOS40D with 17-85mm EF USM Kit Lens<br />
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Original RAW file developed with Canon Digital Photo Professional.<br />
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<b>Apps used for post processing:</b><br />
<b>SimplyHDR-HD</b> - for a HDR version.<br />
<b>ArtistaOil-HD</b> - for an oil painting simulation.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - for various effects and enhancements.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend a lot. I cannot remember how often I blend what version with what version. I just kept on playing around with it until my picture looked right to me.<br />
<b>TouchRetouch HD</b> - for minor touchups<br />
<b>A+ Signature</b> - for the copyright watermark.<br />
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May 4, 2008 I was visiting the region of Verdun in France together with two friends of mine, where one of the fiercest battles of the whole 20th century raged in World War 1. We planned to visit the US Military Cemetery of Romagne-sous-Montfaucon, but stopped on every occasion we found something that caught our interest. One of the places we stopped at was the ruins of the village of Montfaucon with the nearby monument erected for the U.S. troops that fought in this sector. The village of Montfaucon had been completely destroyed in the battle of Verdun. This picture shows the ruins of the church of Montfaucon, with the observation post build by the Germans. From this place. the German "Kronprinz" observed the battlefield.<br />
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There's a plaque attached to the observation post. It reads the following, original text (I did not do that translation):<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">HISTORY</span></b></div>
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<b>THE RUINS WHICH YOU SEE HERE ARE WHAT WAS THE PARISH CHURCH OF THE VILLAGE OF MOUNTFAUCON (MOUNT FALCON) UNTIL 1914.</b></div>
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<b>ON THIS PEAK, WHICH WAS 342 METERS (1.122 FEET) IN ELEVATION, MONTFAUCON WAS FOUNDED IN THE YEAR 587 BY THE MONK SAINT BALDERIC, GRANDSON OF CLOTAIRE, WHO ESTABLISHED A MONASTERY. TRADITION TELLS US THAT HE WAS GUIDED BY A FALCON, THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF THE VILLAGE.</b></div>
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<b>BECAUSE OF ITS GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION, THIS VILLAGE HAS SUFFERED REPEATED INVASIONS AND WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED MORE THAN TEN TIMES DURING THE COURSE OF HISTORY. HERE KIND EUDES LAUNCHED A GREAT BATTLE AGAINST THE NORMANS ON JUNE 24, 888.</b></div>
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<b>ON 11. SEPTEMBER, 1914, THE VILLAGE, WHICH COMPRISED 900 INHABITANTS, WAS CAPTURED AND BURNED BY THE GERMAN ARMY. AS AN IMPORTANT STRATEGIC POINT, THE GERMAN ARMY ESTABLISHED 17 ARMED OBSERVATION POSTS (BLOCKHOUSES) IN THE RUINS. SOME OF THESE ARE STILL VISIBLE, NOTABLY THE ONE CALLED THE "OBSERVATOIRE DU KRONPRINZ" WHICH IS LOCATED AT THE CENTER OF THE OLD CHURCH.</b></div>
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<b>DURING NEARLY FOUR YEARS FRENCH ARTILLERY SHELLED THE SITE WITHOUT RESULT OTHER THAN TO COMPLETE THE DESTRUCTION OF THE BUILDINGS.</b></div>
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<b>ON 26 AND 27 SEPTEMBER, 1918, THROUGH THE COMBINED EFFORTS OF THE U.S. AND FRENCH ARMIES UNDER THE COMMAND OF GENERALS PERSHING AND GOURAND, A POWERFUL ATTACK PERMITTED THE U.S. 313TH REGIMENT OF THE 79TH INFANTRY DIVISION TO SEIZE THIS PEAK THIS NEW BATTLE OF MONTFAUCON PERMITTED THE ALLIES TO CLEAR THIS SECTOR OF THE FRONT AND TO MAKE AND ADVANCE OF MORE THAN 50 KILOMETERS (30 MILES).</b></div>
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<b>TO COMMEMORATE THIS ACTION AND IN MEMORY OF MORE THAN 100,000 U.S. SOLDIERS WHO DIED OR WERE WOUNDED ON THE BATTLEFIELDS OF THE AREA, THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA ERECTED THIS COLUMN OF GRANITE AS A TESTIMONIAL TO THEIR MANY SACRIFICES FOR FREEDOM.</b><br />
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</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2863770742602824738.post-5561480261574535822011-12-13T15:49:00.000+01:002011-12-13T15:55:01.488+01:00Rue de la Concorde (in Arlon, Belgium).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22BTKXfdHr4/TudGJgTJqAI/AAAAAAAAFkM/lab_gMOCyPw/s1600/IMG_1001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22BTKXfdHr4/TudGJgTJqAI/AAAAAAAAFkM/lab_gMOCyPw/s400/IMG_1001.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Camera</b>: Canon EOS40D with17-85mm EF USM kit lens<br />
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<b>RAW file developed and cropped in Canon Digital Photo Professional.</b><br />
<b>Apps used for postprocessing on the iPad:</b><br />
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First I created two versions of this picture in Canon's <b>DPP</b>, one slightly overexposed + one slightley underexposed. I saved the files in 16bit JPG format and transferred them to my iPad using <b>PhotoSync</b>. This neat little app is a real must-have for quick and easy picture transfers between iPad+iPhone+Computer. You can send from any iDevice to any other iDevice where the app is running, plus you can send from your iDevice to your Windows PC or Mac. In case you have no WiFi connection, you can do the transfer over a Bluetooth connection. <i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Tip: </span>Alternatively you can use Apple's Camera Connection Kit for iPad <b>(MC531ZM/A)</b> for quick photo transfers from iPhone to iPad. The kit is meant to connect either your digicam, DSLR or SD-Card to the iPad but if you connect your iPhone to it instead, the iPhone is being identified as a camera, allowing to transfer your photos to the iPad.</i><br />
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<b>ProHDR</b> - to create a HDR picture from the two original photos.<br />
<b>SimplyHDR </b>- to enhance the HDR picture further. I was choosing a color overlay with a warm center (brownish, orange) and cold borders (gray). This nicely enhanced the picture but like the center was brownish and orange, also the lantern glasses and the roof of the last house on the picture had been tinted orange, which I didn't like. More about the lanterns later in this listing.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - for a <i>pencil drawing</i> of the first HDR picture made with <b>ProHDR</b>.<br />
<b>Blender</b> - to blend the <i>pencil drawing</i> with the <b>SimpyHDR </b>version. This nicely enhanced the outlines of the buildings. Blending the pictures in <i>Overlay </i>mode keeps the colors but enhances details in the picture.<br />
<b>TonaloptiaHD </b>- for a black and white version of my picture. I switched from <b>MonoPhix </b>to <b>TonalOptia </b>because the developers of <b>MonoPhix </b>dropped color filter support in the HD version. I really have no understanding for that. The HD version appears very unfinished to me. I wrote to the developers but got no response. So their app is history now for me and I'm glad there is <b>Tonaloptia</b>, which includes various color filters plus a train load full of options to fine tune your picture. I was choosing a <i>yellow filter</i> on the b/w picture.<br />
<b>FilterStorm Pro</b> - I noticed the lantern glasses and the roof had been tinted orange too so I opened the color version of my picture in <b>FilterStorm Pro</b> where I added the b/w version of it as a <i>second exposure.</i> Using the masking brush I masked off the lanterns, or to say it in other words, I brushed the b/w lanterns and roof free in the color picture so the b/w parts came trough. But now these parts had been b/w, which still didn't look right.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- I was blending the new version, which had the b/w parts in it, with the color version in <b>Blender</b>, <i>Normal </i>mode, to add a little bit of color again to the b/w parts to let these parts look realistic again.<br />
<b>Photo fx Ultra</b> - to apply a <i>dreamy </i>effect to my picture. I used the <i>SoftFX effect No. 10 </i>for it. This created a very dreamy version of my picture, which was what I wanted to have because I intended to reduce the effect anyway.<br />
<b>Blender </b>- to blend the <i>dreamy </i>version with the non-dreamy version 65/35 in normal mode. Then I was loading this new version in <b>Blender</b> again to blend it with the <i>pencil </i>version which enhanced details a little more. I used only a 12% slider setting in <b>Normal</b> mode, color picture on the left side, pencil drawing on the right side, slider set 12% from the left.<br />
<b>Camera+ </b>- for the beautiful old-fashion paper frame. I just love that frame!<br />
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March this year I did a photo walk with a friend in Arlon, a little Belgian town only a few miles from the border with Luxembourg. At that time I still had no clue about iPhoneography so I made my photos mostly with my DSLR camera. The photo that served as the base for this picture didn't even look good enough to me for making something special out of it in PhotoShop. But thanks to the iPad and the wonderful apps that exist I could finally make something out of it that I like. The buildings shown in this picture represent the typical architecture from the end of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century in Southern Wallonia (also known as "Le Pays de la Gaume), as well as in the Eiffel and Luxembourg.<br />
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</div>Gaston Grafhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13518134712763056608noreply@blogger.com0